tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73006384756699405202024-03-13T05:06:38.129-04:00Ask SparkyAnswers to EMailed QuestionsSparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.comBlogger47125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-73359930631016699912013-06-28T17:27:00.002-04:002013-06-28T17:29:23.873-04:001998 Ford Expedition Power Window Problems, The GEM Has Been Replaced To No Avail!A reader, Paul R., recently had a problem with his 1998 Ford Expedition that went beyond a normal GEM issue.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Sparky,</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">In order of events. Problem was w/ driver side one touch moving window down w/o activating the switch. All other windows worked. I taped it in the up position to keep it from activating. Over time none of the windows worked and the one touch was intermittent. I put in a new drivers switch ...nothing. I changed out the GEM module and the one touch down works but I have to use an auxiliary battery jumpered to the drivers door switch ground and up terminal to raise it. I tried jumpering to the other windows via this switch...nothing. I've have since checked no power (black blue wire) coming into switch. Checked lower right terminal on battery saver relay and have 12v. Could not get a good ground on the upper right but maybe it was my 12v jumper from the vehicle battery. Below is my window schematic. If you have a moment please suggest the next step. Thanks for all the info provided from your site.</span><br />
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Finally got around to fixing the window problem. This recent post was my exact problem. Connector rests above the floor board which was rusted out. Three of the 7 wires in the connector had no continuity...rusted. Spliced, fixed the hole and all is fine. Please pass on to others w/ similar issues. Thanks again.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">Sparky,</span><br />
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Here are a couple pics. Three splices to bypass bad wires in the connector and added a new ground. Second pic shows light coming through the hole. Floor patch to follow. Had to remove the plastic kick panel to access. All the wires through this connector go from the door to/from the door switch to, I believe the GEM. The blue w/ black strip wire which is + power was intact but w/ high resistance. Once spliced all windows and door locks worked.... previously only the drivers window touch down would work but not up and no door locks. Had to add power to the switch to raise the window. Hope this helps others. Many older Ford Expeditions in the north w/ salted roads rust in this area.</div>
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<i><br /></i>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-89945528366765931562013-02-21T18:48:00.001-05:002013-02-21T18:48:08.736-05:002004 Chevrolet Tahoe, 30 Amp Blower/HVAC Fuse Blows<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px; line-height: 19px;"><span style="color: #cc0000; font-family: inherit;">Hi Sparky,</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px; line-height: 19px;"><span style="color: #cc0000; font-family: inherit;">Every time I put in a new 30 amp Blower/HVAC fuse it blows as soon as I turn on the control knob on the dash. I have already replaced the blower resistor and the connector that goes to it. I have now removed the blower resistor and cut off the harness trying to isolate the short. I then tried installing a new 30 amp fuse. It still blows this fuse as soon as I turn the blower knob to #1. It blows the fuse even though no resistor or it’s harness is connected. No wires are touching where the harness (Connector) was cut off. Could the problem be in the HVAC control head on the dash or maybe the relay under the hood?</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 19px;">Hi Nick,</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16px;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">Since you stated it was a 30 amp fuse I am assuming it is located at the driver's end of the dash. I would narrow the problem down by installing a new fuse with the key off. Switch the blower switch to speed 5 and then turn the key on and see what happens. I would repeat on each speed in the same manner. Doing so will hopefully tell you if the problem is with only one speed or with several. This will give us a direction to go in to look for the short.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 16px;">Sparky</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="color: #cc0000; font-family: inherit;">Thanks Sparky,</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="color: #cc0000; font-family: inherit;">I did what you said and it worked on speed 5 and then 4. As soon as it hit speed 3 the fuse blew. Key off Replaced the fuse and pulled the temp control head on the dash . I then Checked each wire for continuity to the distant end at the module connector. I found the yellow and tan wire to be conducting to each other and to ground. I then slowly traced the wires back to the module and further on to the large connector at the passenger side access panel on the dash. This connector had several female connectors grounded to each other and to ground as I checked it with my meter. I began unwrapping the tape on the wiring harness behind the connector because the connector appeared to show no damage. About 6 inches from this connector, I found several wires melted together. I cut them out and soldered and shrink tubed them and taped them. Everything works fine so far. I am a little worried about how the wires became melted in this manner. I also noted that prior to reinstalling the blower resistor, it was hot to the touch. I hope this is normal. I put everything back together and on the way to work this morning everything works, all 5 speeds. Thank you for you direction and help.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="color: #cc0000; font-family: inherit;">Nick</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">Hi Nick,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">Although I have never seen it, I have heard of an issue of wires rubbing on a bracket around the glove box area. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">The blower resistor is designed to have air flowing across it to keep it cool. If it was not mounted it would get very warm. If left long enough it would get hot enough to burn you and cause internal damage to itself.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: inherit;">Sparky,</span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-88339423543758782652012-11-04T19:19:00.000-05:002012-11-04T19:19:16.596-05:001996 Grand Am Ignition Key Does Not Seem to Turn Far Enough<br />
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<span style="color: #990000;">Hi Sparky,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">I have been working on my daughters Pontiac Grand Am with my father who has been a </span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">mechanic for </span><span style="color: #990000;">about 40 years. The car will not start when key is turned forward, not a</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;"> security </span><span style="color: #990000;">issue. We </span><span style="color: #990000;">thought </span><span style="color: #990000;">it was ignition switch but when we pulled switch out you can </span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">start car with</span><span style="color: #990000;"> screw driver in</span><span style="color: #990000;"> the </span><span style="color: #990000;">switch. Have you ever seen internal parts wear in column</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;"> which would cause</span><span style="color: #990000;"> it to not turn</span><span style="color: #990000;"> far </span><span style="color: #990000;">enough forward to ignite starter wire? It appears to</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;"> turn far enough forward. We</span><span style="color: #990000;"> tried a new i</span><span style="color: #990000;">gnition switch but same result as the old one. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Could the piece that is between the</span><span style="color: #990000;"> lock cylinder </span><span style="color: #990000;"> and the ignition have wear and not be </span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">engaging far enough? We are both </span><span style="color: #990000;">stumped, should we</span><span style="color: #990000;"> try </span><span style="color: #990000;">a column from another vehicle?</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Thanks</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Brad</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi Brad,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">It is possible to have something broken in the intermediate/lock cylinder housing. I have</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;"> seen it</span><span style="color: #666666;"> many times on other brands. I cannot remember seeing this condition on a GM </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">vehicle of that</span><span style="color: #666666;"> era though. Looking at a GM break down of the column there are several </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">pieces involved.</span><span style="color: #666666;"> There is the lock cylinder and ignition switch of course but there are two</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;"> other part numbers </span><span style="color: #666666;">26032220 (actuator,ign &start sw) and 26042649 (housing, steering </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">column). You might want</span><span style="color: #666666;"> to Google those number to see if they might help your situation. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">A few of the results have a part</span><span style="color: #666666;"> breakdown with them.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Sparky</span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-4283682595847606252012-11-03T08:34:00.000-04:002012-11-03T08:38:32.015-04:00No High Blower Speed 2002 Chevrolet Silverado <br />
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<span style="color: #990000;">Sparky,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">2002 Chevy 2500HD with manual air. I lost only speed 5 on the blower and ordered a relay & harness from The Electric Connection and replaced this last weekend with no change. The fuse was good under the hood but I changed it just for grins and it too had no effect. Also, I cannot find a fuse labeled exactly "BLWR" but all fuses are good. I have 12 volts going into the blower motor inself on all 5 speeds but it just quits working when the switch is changed to speed 5. Could this be the switch?</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Thanks for any help in advance!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi GH,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">You have to have three things in order for blower speed number 5 to work. Ground on terminal "E" black wire, Power on terminal "F" orange wire and Power on terminal "G" red wire. Wire colors are for original wiring. Terminal "E" ground id constant and terminal "G" power is constant. Terminal "F" power is only there when the ignition is on and the blower switch is set to position 5.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Sparky</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial; line-height: 17px;"><span style="color: #990000;">Ok Sparky,</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial; line-height: 17px;"><span style="color: #990000;">Power to terminal F is good when the switch is on 5. Terminal E ground seems good. Power on terminal G is good through all 5 speeds and when the switch is off. However, this is when it is checked with the harness disconnected. When reconnected, power to terminal G is lost when the switch is on speed 5. Using a test light and the harness plugged in, terminal G will go out when switched from 4 to 5 and not necessarily come back on when switched back to 4 even though the blower starts again. If someone simply pushes down hard on the underhood fuse and holds it down, the light will come back on as long as the switch is anywhere but 5. If you leave it alone and check a little later, it usually will light up again (terminal G) but immediately go out again when switched to speed 5. Any thoughts?</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi GH,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">It would seem that you have either a faulty fuse box, fuse or a loose harness connection on the underside of the fuse box. Some fuse boxes have securing bolts that are tightened on the upper side of the fuse box and some have the securing bolts underneath. Either way they will have to be removed and inspected for damaged terminals.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Sparky</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Sparky,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">I've found the source of the problem. I've attached a photo in case you run across this situation again. Everything I found on the internet about speed 5 not working was either a fuse in the underhood fuse box or the blower resistor and mine was neither. I was reading on the net that other people were having the same problem and nobody ever answered them concerning what I found. Now my problem is how to fix the situation correctly. Does <a href="http://the-electric-connection.com/" style="cursor: pointer;" target="_blank">the-electric-connection.com</a> have a replacement 68-pin fuse box connector like the one in the photo? If not, would this even be available at the dealer? If not, would you get one from a junk yard or simply bypass the damaged terminal with an inline fuse? The fuse box itself appears fine and if a replacement connector is advised by you, I know I would have to replace the one burned wire and its terminal and I am able to do so. Thanks again for your help. I will use the-electric-connection.com for all my electrical parts needs in the future due to the fabulous experience I've had!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Thanks,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;">Glenn</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXSDOk1DPmpUOTEwYvmEAZJeZeQViAclVUw7HGq0rlaWMsDLrp5Hregvcvr-w3spiYSCzt3sxJMs25WC1CQu83FjqS1QwFZjteFeie-sWRzSJrbu7A9NkgCL7lFB9JvlCVIXp5eOEoJKs/s1600/Burned+Terminal+Under+Fusebox.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXSDOk1DPmpUOTEwYvmEAZJeZeQViAclVUw7HGq0rlaWMsDLrp5Hregvcvr-w3spiYSCzt3sxJMs25WC1CQu83FjqS1QwFZjteFeie-sWRzSJrbu7A9NkgCL7lFB9JvlCVIXp5eOEoJKs/s320/Burned+Terminal+Under+Fusebox.JPG" width="240" /></a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: arial; line-height: 17px;"><span style="color: #990000;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi Glenn,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">I think that rewiring the damaged circuit to an external fuse holder will be the best option.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;">Sparky,</span></div>
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<br />Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-30888141745857668822012-11-02T09:30:00.000-04:002012-11-02T11:30:54.499-04:001996 Chevy K1500, No Crank Condition<br />
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">Hello </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 Silverado short bed 4WD with a no start condition, 178,000 never had a starting issue and I am the original owner it is totally stock. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I went to to start the truck and the lights in the dash went out and the chime for the key was sounding strange and no start. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I jumped started the truck and parked it to work on it. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I found the battery cables were in poor condition so replaced both the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE battery cables still no start and dash gauges moved with key in on position. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I then replaced the starter and solenoid, went to start the truck and got clicking so I jumped started the truck with my 50 amp hot start and it would only click.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I then put a jumper cable NEG battery ground to the frame and it started no problem and ran the engine. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I then checked all the grounds twice, removed them cleaned them and added a new ground to the frame rail still no start just click and no dash lights. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I had already checked the battery and fuses but I checked them again and found if I use a jumper cable from the neg terminal on the battery to the right frame rail the truck starts and dash light work.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I added a ground cable to the right frame rail but no start and no dash lights but if I use my jumper cable from the battery post to the right frame rail the truck starts and dash lights work. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I rechecked the grounds and found no problems. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">I do not know where to go next, starter relay or I am thinking I need to replace the ignition switch. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">The battery is not new but turns the motor fast with the negative jumper cable to the right frame rail. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">What do you think, new battery or new ignition switch I am at a total loss on what to do next. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">Thank you for your input </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">Bob, </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-size: x-small;">Warwick NY </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi Bob,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">I would assume you are using a standard set of jumper cables to make the connection between the battery and the frame rail. My question is where specifically are you connecting the clamps? Also is your battery a standard side post battery or is it a dual terminal battery, top and side posts?</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">If it is a standard side post battery; you have a poor connection at the battery, the frame rail or the negative cable is faulty.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">If you have a dual post battery and have been connecting the jumper cable between the negative top post terminal to the frame rail, then the side post terminal is broken inside the battery.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">There is also a very small chance that the act of installing the ground jumper cable is moving something on the positive side of the battery connections.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">On that note, are there one or two cables that connect to the battery positive terminal? If you have two check for corrosion between all of the connecting pieces, including the lead spacer.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Sparky</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">Sparky </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">Thank you for your quick response, you called it correct it was a poor connection at the side post connection of the positive side in between the lead spacer. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">I replaced all the cables dual on the positive side and now dual on the negative side I added a additional ground to the other frame rail as my 1996 has a lot of rust. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">I also installed a new battery and everything is working good.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">I have to thank you again as it is very kind of you to help with my trouble shooting problem </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">Please let me know how I can return the favor to you for your kindness and help </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">God Bless you and your family </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">All the best </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">Bob</span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-81155259845384659782012-11-01T12:01:00.000-04:002012-11-01T14:12:24.892-04:00<br />
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<span style="color: #660000;">I looked on your site and I was not really seeing exactly what my problem is. I am a woman with little mechanical skills, how ever I can do somethings... My problem is: My Buick's battery went dead on a Sunday and was jump started, and then 2 days later the battery died again and I was jump started and I went to advanced auto parts and they put in a new battery. (they did the cord plug to the inside to keep the electronics from going haywire.) But later that day, when I turned on my ac the vents are not working properly... I have air blowing out of the defrost and I have air blowing in the back seats... but I am unable to get air into my front vents.,. I noticed reading blogs people had similar problems but they also had other issues and I am not sure what could be wrong. I Googled and did see that other people who had Rainier's and their batteries went dead, their vents in front did not work either.. there were no solutions... Can this be a fuse that needs to be replaced or is it the actuator that you mention in other peoples blogs. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">What do you think , and if you did have an idea, can you give me step by step or direct me to a step by step ?? I really do not have a lot of money to spend it on a mechanic... </span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">I would appreciate any help that you could give me.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">Thank you again,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000;">Rhoda </span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi Rhoda,</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Your problem should be the same as the one in the repair article that I have included a link for. The exceptions would be if your Rainier is a 2002 model of if you have adjustable pedals in your vehicle.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;"><a href="http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/05/2003-gmc-envoy-no-ac-vent-control-b0263.html">http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/05/2003-gmc-envoy-no-ac-vent-control-b0263.html</a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #666666;">Sparky,</span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-47202099468306915042011-03-28T09:29:00.000-04:002012-11-02T08:12:05.883-04:001997 F150, Dome Light And Chime Come On When Brake Pedal Is Pressed<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #990000; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>Sparky,</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #990000; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>I have a 1997 Ford F-150 4x2. It has a electrical problem I can not find. The small relay in the fuse box clicks (I think it is the second from the top), the dome light flashes along with the clicking relay, also when you hit the brake the dome light comes on real dim and the door chime beeps each time you hit the brake, it is as if you opened the door, regardless of the door being open or shut. And the power windows do not work. I am not real good at tracking down wiring problems, but I did a Google search and everything I found pointed towards the gem module. So I bought a used one from a salvage yard and installed it. It still does the exact same thing. How much would you charge to help me find my problem? I already blew $150.00 on a gem that didn't work. I would like to get this truck going again. </b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">Hi David,</span></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">Initially my though twas a weak body ground but it could also be a blown/missing fuse with a circuit back feeding (requires removing and looking at the fuse element to check it). Check your owners manual for fuse locations. You also could have weak body power supply. There also could be wire damage at the brake pedal itself. Just a few things to check. Does the truck run?</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">I do not have a set fee for helping. I prefer for you to donate, as a percentage of the repair savings. Much like you would tip a waiter, a percentage of the restaurant bill. </span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #990000; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>Yes, the truck runs. was working fine, my sister borrowed it, brought it back and I got in it about 30 minutes later and it was a mess, I swore she must have done something, lol but couldnt think of anything she could of done. It had a aftermarket alarm in it, it was going off all lights were flashing, horn honking ect.. along with the other problems. I tore the dash apart and disconnected the aftermarket alarm, and that left me with what I described earlier. I am going to go to the shop now and check all of the grounds and power wires, along with the fuses. </b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #990000; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>I checked the power and grounds under the hood, fixed a couple that looked bad below the ebrake. Checked the ground in the loom to the door. We have all data but I dont know how to read the schematics. </b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">Hi David,</span></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #444444;">Do you have a scan tool that will communicate with the GEM? Have you checked the grounds behind the right and left kick panels? Is there any sign of a water leak around the fuse box or GEM? Although you replaced the GEM, there could be corrosion inside the fuse box. Let me know what kind of scan tool, voltmeter, test lights or other diagnostic tools that you may have access to.</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #990000; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>We have a Tech 2, a Genisus, and a older snap on scan tools, and volt meter, test light, ect. I checked the grounds on the left kick panel, replaced the ends on a couple of them that looked bad. I didnt know there were grounds on the right kick panel. I will check there tomorrow if I get a chance. I work in a auto repair shop. But I do mainly mechanical work, engine and frame. My boss is good with electrical stuff but he is always to busy. </b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #990000; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>Hello, you were right, I found a rusty ground behind the passenger side kick panel. Thanks so much. Its great to have my truck back. </b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>Hi David,</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>I am glad your truck is fixed.</b></span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-11788778038401737382010-06-11T11:27:00.002-04:002012-11-02T08:13:02.820-04:002005 Chevrolet Silverado, High Blower Inop<b><span style="color: #990000;">Hi Sparky,</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">I ordered a blower resistor and harness combo and two weeks after replacing it, the high blower does not work again. What could be the problem? All other speeds work.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #666666;">Since all other speeds work we know that the ground is okay. What you need to do is switch the key on, set the blower speed to high (#5) and check for power on the red and orange wires at the blower resistor seven wire connector. Let me know what you find.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #990000;">Well Sparky,</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #990000;"> I did what you suggested and found that the red wire was burnt. It started working as soon as I touched it. I guess I should have went ahead and changed the connector when I changed the resistor. I bought both at the same time but the connector looked okay.</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #666666;">Lesson learned. It is very difficult to predict if a connector will fail or not with this system. I agree with GM that the connector and the resistor should be replaced at the same time, regardless of how good it looks!!!!</span></b></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-41772811589374273252010-03-28T11:31:00.005-04:002012-11-02T08:14:00.208-04:001997 Ford Expedition, Battery Goes Dead, Dealer Claims GEM Is The Cause!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 12px;"><b>Sparky<br /><br />I read your write-up on replacing a GEM module in a 1997 Ford. Thanks!<br /><br />I have a 97 Expedition, the dealer told me after 10 minutes and $300 that I need a new GEM and the price tag was going to be $1700.<br /><br />The symptom is this: everything remains on after the key is turned off and removed. Drains the battery. Does that sound like the GEM or are their other things that would cause this? Thanks<br /><br /><br />Dan</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ff6600; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: monospace, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 12px;"><span style="color: #666666;">Dan,<br /><br />I guess they just don't want to work on a 1997 Expedition. About $450 to $700 would be in the normal range for a GEM replacement on your truck, depending on the cost of the actual GEM for your truck. Some are higher than others depending on year and trim levels. Now on to your problem. You stated that everything stays on with the key off. Can you be more specific, windows, lights, dash warning lights, radio,engine, interior lights, wipers and etc? If the windows and radio stay operational but the dash warning lights are out, I would suspect one of the relays on the left side of the interior fuse box. Specifically relay #2 (battery saver relay) and relay #5 (accessory delay relay). Try tapping on the relays or removing them. If you remove them, look for signs of water intrusion. These trucks have known problems with leaking windshields that damage relays and GEM's. If the dash warning lights stay on along with other items I would suspect a faulty ignition switch or ignition switch linkage.<br /><br />Sparky,<br /><br />Happy with the help that Sparky gave you? Click on the following link to Thank Sparky!!<br /><a href="http://store.the-electric-connection.com/Category106" style="outline: none; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://store.the-electric-connection.com/Category106</a></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ff6600; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: -webkit-xxx-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><b>Sparky<br /><br />That was it, relay #2. Works like a champ, and change back from my $20. Much better than $1700.<br /><br />Thank you so much!<br /><br />Dan</b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ff6600; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: monospace, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';">Hi Dan,<br /><br />Glad I could help. As we all know nothing is truly free, so I need some help from you. The site is intended to generate ad revenue to keep it free. Please encourage as many people as possible to use the site or if it is easier you can make a Thank You Sparky donation at the following link.<br /><br /><a href="http://store.the-electric-connection.com/Category163" style="outline: none; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://store.the-electric-connection.com/Category163</a><br /><br /><br />Sparky,</span></span></span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-75785463202493011622010-02-23T08:26:00.004-05:002010-02-23T08:32:30.161-05:002001 Chevrolet Impala, No Dash Lights.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 12px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;">Hi Sparky,</span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 12px; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;">I have a 2001 impala the radio lights and the (P.R.N.D.2.1) lights work in the daytime and at night I cant see them, Also the cluster lights dont seem to work at all, Can you give some tips please. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;"> Arthur</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;color:#FF6600;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;color:#FF6600;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;color:#FF6600;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); "> Hi Arthur,<br /><br />It would seem like either the panel dimming fuse is blown or the dimmer circuit board in the headlight switch is faulty. Have you checked to see if the switch is turned down to the full dim position?<br /><br /> Sparky</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;">It's the first thing you do when something is not working is to see if it is turned on. It is fixed I went to work on it as soon as I read your reply, it was the dimmer circuit board.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;"> Arthur</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF6600;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';font-size:100%;color:#FF6600;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></div>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-59289070278691706012009-07-14T19:17:00.003-04:002012-11-02T08:14:35.080-04:002005 Chevrolet Silverado, Driver's Vent Hot Passenger Vent Cold<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">Sparky,</span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">This past weekend I received the replacement Blower Motor Resistor for my '05 Chevy Silverado, installed it and now the blower is working fine. However now the driver's side will only blow hot air (being in 100 degree texas heat I'm not sure if the heater was on or if it was just outside air) it will not blow cool air at all. The passenger's side seems to be working fine.<br />My assumption is not that the part is bad or that I installed it incorrectly, I would just like some tips on what I should do next.<br /></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">Thanks for everything<br /></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Mike</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000; font-family: 'trebuchet ms'; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: small;">Hi Mike,<br /><br />First you need to try a recalibration procedure. Set the controls to high blower and temp to medium. Make sure the key is off. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for at least one minute. Reconnect the cable, start the engine and DO NOT adjust the controls. After about 4 minutes turn the key off for at least thirty seconds and then restart the engine, check the controls for function. If problem is gone calibration worked if it is still there you will more than likely have to replace the driver's side blend air door actuator, pretty easy. Let us know if you need more help.<br /><br />Sparky</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms'; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms'; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">Sparky<br /><br />The recalibration procedure worked like a charm. Thanks for your help,<br />the next time I have a problem with my truck I know who i'm gonna ask first.<br /><br />You're the best!<br /><br />-Mike</span></span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-40414691066815419932009-07-11T21:05:00.002-04:002012-11-02T08:15:21.865-04:002002 Chevrolet Trailblazer, Will Not Idle<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">I have a 2002 trailblazer Wednesday I had the battery replaced, since then I notice that whenever the a/c is cut on it dies out</span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">Hi Sam,</span></span></span></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="-webkit-background-clip: initial; -webkit-background-origin: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-color: #fffffd; background-image: initial; background-repeat: initial; font-family: Arial; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span _extended="true" style="display: block; padding-bottom: 14px; padding-left: 20px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 10px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span _extended="true" style="display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">It sounds like carbon build up on the throttle plate. If you can stand to drive it long enough the computer should learn around the condition just like it did over the life of the vehicle so far. If you want to clear it up sooner you should clean the throttle plate. Most shops keep the cleaner and will clean it for a fee or you can purchase throttle plate cleaner at most parts stores. If you clean it yourself you should wear some sort of protective gloves as you need to spray the clean on a rag and then wipe the throttle plate clean. Some disassembly is needed. If you have Throttle Actuator Controller (no throttle cable between throttle body and gas pedal) Be sure not to spray the throttle bore as it can damage the motor bearings and seals. Do you have a service engine soon light on?</span></span><span _extended="true" style="display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">Sparky</span></span></span><span _extended="true" style="color: #427d64; display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></span><span _extended="true" style="display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">No just changed the battery because I had to jump it off a few times and took battery in for evaluation it was still on under warranty so they just prorated the price of new one. Then this started happening. So just spraying this down will clear it up and car will not die with Air Conditioner on.</span></span></span><span _extended="true" style="color: #427d64; display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #427d64; font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">Hi Sam,</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">Yes, Cleaning the throttle body should correct the condition. You should be more sure that it will after you inspect and find some carbon built up on the throttle plate and throttle bore. However I do caution you about "spraying it down" , Apply the cleaner to a rag and wipe it clean. Excessive amounts of the solvents can damage seals, bearings, sensors and idle control motors!!!! Make sure you only use approved throttle plate cleaner. Other cleaners can damage interior coatings. Sometimes you have to wrap a rag around the end of a screwdriver or similar device and basically make a large Q-tip in order to clean it due to depth. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;"> </span></span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 23px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span _extended="true" style="display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">Sparky</span></span></span><span _extended="true" style="color: #990000; display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></span><span _extended="true" style="color: #990000; display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-86041991805424717052009-07-11T20:45:00.002-04:002012-11-02T08:16:31.504-04:001997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Bower Erratic, Inop<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Hi,</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> The heater / AC blower motor works erratically. It will not run on any speed except High most of the time.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">However, even at "5" (Hi speed setting), </span><u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">it will not start immediately</span></u><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> most of the time. If you set it to 5,</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">it may take 5 seconds or longer to begin running. Even after it is running it will not run at 4 or any lower</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">speed. Sometimes it did begin to run at a lower speed if you just left it there...it may start several minutes</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">later but was not predictable at all.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> I am an electronics tech so have tried troubleshooting this situation. Initially, I assumed it was going to be</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">the "resistor" block since it at least always worked at high speed but got to where it never works on the</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">lower speeds. Then I got to thinking about this failure to start immediately on the high speed. I thought</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">if the motor "bearings" are getting bad, they may be resisting the startup on the lower speeds to where</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">it won't run except on high speed (with full voltage).</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">So I temporarily connected a new blower motor but it behaved the same way... runs after several seconds</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">of waiting, on high speed only. It doesn't run on any lower setting. I then checked for 12 volts at the connector</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">with the motor disconnected. It shows about 11.5VDC on the high setting and just a few tenths lower on each</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">lower setting. (I'm assuming with no load it is not showing the actual voltage drop on those lower settings</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">that would be normal with </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">the motor connected).</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> So we know it isn't the motor and also not the resistors since it doesn't explain why the motor still takes</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">several seconds to start when on High as this should be applying the full battery voltage instantly. With</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">reading some amount of DC even through the resistors, they should not be an issue nor the series</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">hi temp fuse.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> I noticed a relay "click" each time the blower switch is turned on so assumed it's contacts may be pitted</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">and responsible for part of the problem. After locating the "box" containing the relay, I noted there were</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">two other relays on the PC board which also contained 2-3 integrated circuit "chips" . The board had two</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">multiwire connector blocks which were the connectors for the cabling from/to this assembly.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">I'm not familiar with this assembly. I have a "generic" diagram of the blower, switch, and relay but it doesn't show</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">any other circuitry involved. I'm wondering about the other components on this circuit board and if they are</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">involved in the function of the blower and it's turning on. I also noted that when the blower switch is turned</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">on to a low number, you hear the relay click on, but when up to the high setting, it clicks back to off???</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Manually closing the relay contact seemed to have no effect on the motor.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> So... after all this discussion, what are your thoughts on what is going on here and is this circuit board the</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">source of all the problem here? Is the circuit board repairable at a component level by myself? If I could get</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">the part numbers off the IC's, I may be able to change them as there are no other "active" parts on the board</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">and appears to be nothing overheated/burned.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">The numbers found on the "box" with the relays were:</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">10097889 and 7156J These don't appear to be the GM part numbers and there were no other numbers found</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">except an insignificant one on the board itself.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Thanks for your support,</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Harlan</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">Hi Harlan,</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">The first thing to check when the inop condition is power to the three fuses in the right hand fuse box. HVAC Control / 20 amp, HVAC Hi / 30 amp, DIC/HVAC 10 amp. The HVAC Hi fuse should be hot at all times and the other two should be hot with the key on. If all are okay the next step would be to check power and ground at the blower motor itself with all of the harness connectors in place. Let me know what you find and I will provide more info as you test.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">Sparky</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Hi Sparky,</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Thanks so much for your tips. I have a wiring diagram of the circuit in question. After much troubleshooting, I did find the</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">supply voltage to the blower motor switch was very low to none! It at times would measure around 5 volts. Further checking</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">at the HVAC control fuse found the same condition at the SUPPLY side of the fuse.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">I temporarily bridged that fuse to the adjacent fuse's supply (heavy gauge wire) and everything worked perfectly... all the</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">speeds of the blower switch functioned as they should. Oddly, with the fuse removed, the voltage on the supply side</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">would read normal but as soon as the fuse was in and the blower switch on, it dropped to nearly zero.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">So the problem now is why and where is the 12 volt supply to this fuse losing it's voltage. There are two lighter gauge</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">pink wires on the back of that fuse block which carry the supply voltage. I have not been able to locate where they</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">originate due to the cumbersome wire bundle they run into. Apparently this circuit goes through the ignition switch but</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">then where does it eventually connect to the battery positive? With the small gauge wire being used (maybe 18-20 gauge..</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">which seems rather light for running a motor that consumes a fair amount of current) it wouldn't seem likely that much</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">arcing (corroding / oxidizing) would take place resulting in this condition in the switch.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Also you would think messing with </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">the ignition key and switch position would have an intermittent result where</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">it would at times work at least to some extent.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">If you can find the wiring diagram of how this fuse is supplied and where the supply wires physically run, that would be the</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">next step and a great help. At least then I could check the voltage at the input to the ignition switch to hopefully rule it out.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">BTW... is the ignition "switch" removable from the key function itself... so the electrical switch could be replaced without</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">requiring a new "key / lock" assembly?</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Thanks very much for your time and wading through this mess... been quite a struggle... aching back and sore neck from</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">crawling around under the dash, etc. :-)</span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Harlan</span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"></span></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">Good Morning Harlan,</span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">As you stated in your first email, this has been an ongoing erratic condition that has gotten worse. The ignition switch is your problem as mentioned earlier. To check go to the ignition switch connector at the base of the column. It should make up the center part of a larger junction connection. Check both large red wires for 12 volt supply. If 12 volts is not present check the ignition fuses under the hood. If it is present and it most likely it will be then proceed to check the orange wire for 12 volts with the key on. It will not be there. Next jump the orange wire to one of the red wires and see if the blower now works properly.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">The electrical part of the ignition switch can be changed without having to deal with the lock cylinder and key issues. It is fairly simple to change so don't be intimidated by it. You will probably have to invest in some torx bit drivers and sockets in order to replace it if you do not already own them. Any repair manual should show procedure but if you need help just drop me a line.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">Sparky,</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Hey, Thanks for the speedy reply... sure do appreciate it!</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Well suppose it may be the ignition switch then if you're confident</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">there is nothing else in the "line" that would possibly limit the</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">voltage the way this behaves.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">I don't have the car here now to look into it so will see what happens</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">when I try the steps you suggested.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Thanks again.. will try to let you know the results.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Harlan</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">Good Morning Harlan,</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">As you stated in your first email, this has been an ongoing erratic condition that has gotten worse. The ignition switch is your problem as mentioned earlier. To check go to the ignition switch connector at the base of the column. It should make up the center part of a larger junction connection. Check both large red wires for 12 volt supply. If 12 volts is not present check the ignition fuses under the hood. If it is present and it most likely it will be then proceed to check the orange wire for 12 volts with the key on. It will not be there. Next jump the orange wire to one of the red wires and see if the blower now works properly.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">The electrical part of the ignition switch can be changed without having to deal with the lock cylinder and key issues. It is fairly simple to change so don't be intimidated by it. You will probably have to invest in some torx bit drivers and sockets in order to replace it if you do not already own them. Any repair manual should show procedure but if you need help just drop me a line.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;">Sparky,</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Hello again,</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">After further troubleshooting, I did conclude as you suggested, the ignition switch is the entire</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">problem. I've never had this part of a car apart before so it was a bit challenging to get at the</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">switch area on the steering column. Managed to have something close to the necessary tools</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">to do the job but sure was a lot of work.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Another thing that made it more difficult was that the wiring harness to the connector block under</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">the dash needed to be reworked. I had tapped into about 5 wires some time ago when installing</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">a remote car starter. So I had to get that all out on the bench and splice those lines back into</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">the new wiring harness. Yes the switch is apparently only available with it's attached wiring</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">harness with black plastic connector block.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> Well this has been a difficult one since I was hoping it would only be the blower motor at the</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">beginning but was really the ignition switch... can't wait to tear it apart and see what contacts</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">look like to cause this trouble. Also left in the new blower motor as it occasionally would squeal.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Thanks very much, Sparky and have a great day!</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 85%;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Harlan</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-55558746067055281292009-07-11T20:37:00.004-04:002012-11-02T08:17:02.450-04:002000 Pontiac Grand Am, Blower Problems<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;">My heater & A/C control (fan) switch has 1 to 5 settings, but the fan only operates on 3, 4 and 5.<br />The car is a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE.<br />I would like to know if it is the fan motor, a resistor of some sort or possibly the switch? Also would like information as to where the problem lies and the procedure to fix it.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;">I viewed your Web Sites "<b>2005 Chevrolet Silverado Blower Inop</b>" and thought that was an excellent repair procedure.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;">Your assistance will be appreciated.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;">Nelson</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cc0000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: arial, Helvetica, Tahoma, 'Sans serif'; font-size: small;"></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Hi Nelson,</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">More than likely the blower resistor is the problem. It is located under the right side of the dash behind the glove box area. In order to test you will need to remove the lower hush panel and the blower resistor should be located next to the blower motor. Disconnect the harness connector and check for voltage at the yellow wire with the switch in position 1 and check for power on the tan wire with the switch in position 2. If powers are present the resistor is faulty. If powers are not present then there is a problem at the switch. Due to the fact that you stated that positions 3,4,& 5 work, this confirms that the blower and the blower relay are working. If you happen to find signs of water please make sure that you clean the a/c drain tube or the problem will return. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: small;">Sparky</span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-57768031817721822792009-07-09T19:50:00.000-04:002012-11-02T08:18:16.201-04:001992 GMC Vandura, Rear Blower Location<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: small;">I read the archives but didn't find an answer. I have a 92 GMC vandura 2500<br />and the rear ac blowers doesn't work. Where is the Fan for the rear blower.<br />I have replaced the front fan but I can't locate one for the back? s it<br />ducted from<br />under the dash ?<br /><br />Thanks<br />Nick</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: verdana; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: verdana; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: verdana; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: verdana; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: verdana; font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></span></span></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;">Hi Nick,<br /><br />If it is a factory installed unit it will be in the rear of the van, on the passenger side, behind the trim panels.<br /><br />Sparky</span></span></span></span></div>
Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-22006011109453526852009-07-09T19:45:00.002-04:002012-11-02T08:21:10.893-04:002005 Chevrolet Silverado, No Dash Lights<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: medium;">The gauge lighting is beginning to disappear on my 2005 Chevrolet 1500 pickup truck. Is there any way to change the bulbs? Are there even any bulbs to change? The dash seems to be all one board?</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: medium;">Thanks for your help.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: medium;">Al</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-size: medium;">Hi Al,<br /><br />I have found no listing for replacement instrument cluster bulbs for your truck. I would suggest calling your local GM parts dept to confirm if replacement bulbs are available or not.<br /><br /><br />Sparky</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Thanks for your help. You would think that they would make these things a little easier to change or at least last longer than 4 years.<br />Thanks again for your help.<br />Al</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: verdana;">The bulbs can be replaced. They are wired bulbs that have to be soldered in. There are suppliers on EBay. I only recommend doing this if you are also updating the gauge stepper motors.</span></span></div>
Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-30034650788849187242009-07-09T19:13:00.001-04:002012-11-02T08:21:42.541-04:001999 Buick Century, Blower Squeals<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial;">I have a 1999 Buick Century, and every time I turn on my AC or heater it makes this loud squealing noise. What could be the problem and how cheap is it to fix?!<br /><br />Thank you.<br /><br />Krista</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace;"><span style="color: #666666;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';">Hi Krista,<br /><br />Assuming that the squealing noise is coming from under the passenger side of the dash, I would say your blower motor needs to be replaced. I have included a couple of links that relate to your repair although they do not show how to replace the blower motor itself. The costs can vary quite a bit depending on quality of parts used and if you are replacing yourself or having some one do it for you. In my own shop the whole job would run about $250 + tax, using an original equipment blower motor.<br /></span></span><a href="http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/03/2000-buick-century-blower-will-not-turn.html" style="text-decoration: none;" target="_blank"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';">http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/03/2000-buick-century-blower-will-not-turn.html</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span><a href="http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/03/changing-cabin-air-filter-on-2000-buick.html" style="text-decoration: none;" target="_blank"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';">http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/03/changing-cabin-air-filter-on-2000-buick.html</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms';"><br /><br /><br />Sparky</span></span></span></span></span></div>
Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-2924928257152741452009-07-09T19:01:00.003-04:002012-11-02T08:22:11.007-04:001996 Pontiac Bonneville, Lost Keys<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 100%;"><span style="display: block; font-family: Tahoma; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: medium;">Jeff</span></span></span><span style="display: block; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: georgia;">Hi Jeff,<br /><br />If you will go to any GM Dealership, with the registration and a picture<br />ID, they will cut a new key with the proper resistor for about $30-$50<br />depending on dealer policies. Your name, the name on the registration<br />and on the picture id must all match or they will not talk to you about<br />making a key. A locksmith can do the same but usually charge more<br />because they will come to you.<br /><br /><br />Sparky</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></span></span><span style="color: black; display: block; font-family: Tahoma; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></span><span style="display: block; font-family: Tahoma; font-size: 11.5pt; padding: 10px 0px 14px 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px; font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-size: medium;">Thank you, very much -</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-26253611909655585222009-07-09T18:46:00.002-04:002012-11-02T08:25:07.523-04:002004 Chevrolet Silverado, Blower inop<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: -webkit-monospace;">Hello Sparky,</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: -webkit-monospace;"> I have removed the Blower motor resistor (marke P/N 1530577) for inspection from my 2004 Chevy Silverado, 1500 V8 4.8L 294cid GAS FI N Engine truck. I have no console. When I removed the part a circuit board (which also appears to be cooked) came with it attached to the resistor body by glue apparently. When I refer to your pictures of the part to order, no board is shown. Can you explain this?</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace;"><span style="color: #990000;">Chris</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Hi Chris,</span><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span> Yes, we can explain. GM has redesigned the resistor and the harness connector. The original circuit board design you have has been updated to the current part number 15-81086. GM recommends updating the harness connector when the resistor is changed, our part number 4180. The new resistor will fit on place of the old one. There may be an extra mounting plate on your truck that has to be removed and discarded. You can see more details at the repair site address that follows.<span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span><br /> <a href="http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2008/07/2005-chevrolet-silverado-blower-inop.html" style="text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2008/07/2005-chevrolet-silverado-blower-inop.html</a></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: -webkit-monospace;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Great! I was on the sites and will order the part you specified.<br />I have one additional question. This truck was a field truck driven by our personnel in the dirt on a daily basis. It was a parting gift following my layoff. Anyways, filthy! When I rmoved the harness/circuit board I saw a vertically mounted filter in the housing (with the aid of a flashlight). Now, the cabin air filter has always been a thing of mystery for me (I drove 2 Z71 Tahoes prior to this Silverado and purchased a cabin filter but could not install it). I tried all manner of possibilities to access the filter in the Silverado. No go! I pulled out a shop vac and rigged it up to remove as much dirt as possible (it was caked on like mud and mudclods on the bottom of the housing!). Is there any other recourse for this? I dont really want to get a fan working and have the flow restricted by dirt. Anyway, Thanks again! </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: maroon; font-family: -webkit-monospace; font-size: 12px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: maroon;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial;">Hi Chris,<br /> Indeed, this dirt must be cleaned up as this will damage the new resistor. Are you sure there is a filter there? The evaporator core can look somewhat like a filter to the untrained eye. If it is a filter it should come all the way to the edge of the evaporator housing and there should be strip cover held on by one or two screws. It is also made mostly of paper and will bend with your finger tip pushing on it. If the "filter" appears to be about and inch or two from the outer squared edge of the case then what you are seeing is the evaporator core. If it is indeed the evaporator core that is caked up with dirt, the best thing that can be done is to remove the evaporator core from the truck and either deep clean it or replace it. This is a very time consuming job. In leu of that the case must be completely dried out and then you will need to blow the dirt loose with compressed air and assorted length air guns and a vacuum cleaner. When you have as much out as humanly possible, do it again and again. The next trick is to park the truck down hill, spray a degreasing compound into the hole to coat the evaporator core and slowly rinse the case out with a garden hose. Make sure the a/c drain tube is flowing and take many breaks to allow the water to drain out so that you will not flood your truck. Also lay down plastic to prevent water from going under carpet, mat, seats & etc. You may even want to pack some towels around some things in the dash to keep them from getting any over spray. Do this as many times as you can stand and it should clean up reasonably well.<br /><br /> Sparky<br /> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial;">Sparky, </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial;"> Thank you very much for your insight on this! I will begin stage 1 of cleaning this weekend (this should let the evaporator core dry sufficiently). I thought afterword, and will have my hands full as this truck was as dirty as I have ever seen.<br />I will return a message to you to let you know how it went. I think at that time I will add to the message boards in which everyone is asking if there is a cabin air filter, and in essence, out of sight out of mind. I think it is very important to clean this core up if that is all that is available from a personnel health as well as the health of the conditioning unit.<br />Thanks again. Talk to you soon. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: #666666;"> Hi Chris,<br /><br /> I forgot to mention a good way to dry the evaporator case is to turn the blower on high with the truck off and install a battery charger to keep the battery up. You could also hook the blower motor up to a separate battery if you wanted to. A few hours of the blower running on high and the engine off will usually dry one thoroughly.<br /><br /> Sparky</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #990000;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> Thanks again for all your time with this. I was able to get the evaporator very clean yesterday evening. I began by spraying the unit with Simple Green Degreaser and letting that sit for about 5 minutes. I then used a toothbrush followed by a heavy duty spray bottle to work off the gunk built up on the unit. This took about 4 cycles to get the core to the point where the heavy material was gone. I then parked the truck on an incline and used the garden hose and sprayer to blast out what was left and the junk that fell to the bottom on the housing. Again this took about 4 cycles. I had attacked the ventilation from the dash vent side when I first got the truck.<br />However, as dirty as I got yesterday, I feel that doing this helped the truck and my piece of mind about what i am going to be breathing in when I replace the resistor. I will keep you posted on the results of the entire job. Thanks.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial;"> As a follow up to my earlier emails, I installed the resistor and harness i ordered for my blower unit. Works Great! And no smell from all that dirt that was caked on the condensor core. Fresh air!<br />The only thing that came up was when I turned the fan to full power (5 setting on the dial) it shuts off. I am happy with 4 speeds, but do you have any suggestions of what this could be?<br />Thanks for all our help with this, and in the past.<br />Chris.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666; font-family: Arial;">Hi Chris,<br /><br /> You have a blown fuse in the underhood fuse box. It should be marked BLWR.<br /><br /> Sparky</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Arial;">Wo! Dude, you are good! I will check it out and let you know how it went... Thanks so much!</span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-48839098433406872842009-03-31T20:32:00.006-04:002012-11-02T08:25:33.552-04:002005 Chrysler 300 No Blower<span style="color: #990000;">Hi Sparky,</span><br />
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<span style="color: #990000;"> I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 with manual a/c and the blower does not work. I have taken the motor out and checked it with a battery and some wires and the motor works. What should I check next?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"> For testing power at the blower motor, I recommend that the engine be running. Set the parking brake and make sure the transmission is in park. Now with a test light or a volt meter check to see if you have power at the dark blue wire at the blower motor. If you do not have power at the dark blue wire check the 30 amp fuse #42 in the right rear of trunk. If there is no power there with the engine running I will have to give you a test for the run relay. If there is power there, then go to the blower resistor and check for power on the black w/light green wire, with the blower motor connector plugged in and the engine running. If there is power there, you will need to unplug the resistor and check for ground signals at the harness connector coming from the blower switch. You should see a ground signal on the wires as follows: dark blue w/brown on low speed, dark blue w/orange on medium 1 speed, dark blue w/violet on medium 2 speed and dark blue w/yellow on high speed. If you have all of the switched ground signals then the resistor is bad. If you do not have switched ground signals I will have to give you a test for the blower switch.</span></span></span></div>
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Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-62399342846252348052009-03-09T20:46:00.004-04:002012-11-02T08:26:23.228-04:002002 Chevrolet G3500 Van Dome Lights Inop<span style="color: #990000;">Enjoy your site and the efforts you put in to it.<br />Here's my problem: 2002 Chevy G3500 Van, I can turn on the dome lights with the switch located on the main light switch assembly. All lights work throughout the van but when I open any of the doors, two front doors, two rear doors or two side doors, I get no light. Any ideas.<br /><br />Thanks in advance, Tom</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi Tom,<br /><br />What position is the dome light override switch in? There should be a push button in the headlight switch area. Depending on the position of the switch the door switches will not work.<br /><br />Sparky</span><br />
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<span style="color: #990000;">Correct, I have checked it in both positions, in and out, problem remains. I have tried numerous things to no avail.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666;">Hi Tom,<br /><br />There are several things to look at. First check your fuses in particular the 25 amp PWR ACCY fuse in the interior fuse box. Second access the rear of the headlight switch assembly,unplug the connector, locate the purple wire at terminal L and check to see if it has a ground on it when you open any of the doors. If it does then the door switches are good. Next reconnect the harness to the switch and with a door open that you have confirmed has a good switch in it, check for a ground on the gray wire, terminal B with the dome light over ride switch in both positions. You should have a ground in one position and not the other. If this is okay you will have to locate the interior lamp control module. It may be in one of two places. Either under the center of the dash or behind the right kick panel. The diagram shows that it should have five wires. Pink (ignition power),Gray (door switch input),Orange (constant power),Black (constant ground) and White (ground output to lights)<br /><br />Sparky</span><br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;"></span>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-3980864908384107742009-03-04T19:05:00.003-05:002012-11-02T11:17:14.323-04:001994 GMC Sierra Pickup, Fuel Pump Inop<span style="color: #990000;">I have 1994 GMC Sierra, the fuel pump will not come on when key is turned on but will work when directly connected to battery. We have checked all fuses that we know of and they are good. If you pour gas into throttle body the engine will fire and run for a few seconds. We have been trying for a week now to figure out what may be wrong even replaced the computer and fuel pump relay can you help?</span>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-13225454272532184232009-01-17T11:34:00.002-05:002012-11-02T11:18:28.774-04:002005 Chevrolet Avalanche With Auto Air, Blower Problems<span style="color: #990000;">My 2005 Chevy Avalanche Blower stopped working. Looked at your fix for the blower resistor. Took my glove box out and I don't have that, I have what looks like a module. Fan ran yesterday but not very strong, then started and stopped. Today would not stop. I have the automatic climate control in the truck. Any help would be great.</span><br />
<span style="color: #990000;">Thanks,</span><br />
<span style="color: #990000;">Dave</span>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-69468464700273421532009-01-17T11:30:00.001-05:002012-11-02T11:18:50.660-04:001996 Mazda 626 Code P1407<span style="color: #990000;">1996 Mazda 626 2 litre engine is showing just one code of P1407 with no symptons other than the check engine light is on. Any thoughts it was not listed in the book at the oil change place where they read the code. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #990000;">Thanks </span><br />
<span style="color: #990000;">Ken</span>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7300638475669940520.post-20230230611908558702009-01-12T19:37:00.001-05:002012-11-02T11:19:11.579-04:002002 Chevrolet Astro, Blower Inop<span style="color: #990000;">I have a 2002 chevy astro, The heater blower quit working, first the high speed quit then it all quit, what could be wrong? Thanks, Clay</span>Sparkyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17054692818227773842noreply@blogger.com1