1996 Grand Am Ignition Key Does Not Seem to Turn Far Enough

Hi Sparky,

I have been working on my daughters Pontiac Grand Am with my father who has been a 

mechanic for about 40 years. The car will not start when key is turned forward, not a

 security issue. We thought it was ignition switch but when we pulled switch out you can 

start car with screw driver in the switch. Have you ever seen internal parts wear in column

 which would cause it to not turn far enough forward to ignite starter wire? It appears to

 turn far enough forward. We tried a new ignition switch but same result as the old one. 

Could the piece that is between the lock cylinder  and the ignition have wear and not be 

engaging far enough? We are both stumped, should we try a column from another vehicle?

Thanks

Brad

Hi Brad,

It is possible to have something broken in the intermediate/lock cylinder housing. I have

 seen it many times on other brands. I cannot remember seeing this condition on a GM 

vehicle of that era though. Looking at a GM break down of the column there are several 

pieces involved. There is the lock cylinder and ignition switch of course but there are two

 other part numbers 26032220 (actuator,ign &start sw) and 26042649 (housing, steering 

column). You might want to Google those number to see if they might help your situation. 

A few of the results have a part breakdown with them.

Sparky

1996 Chevy K1500, No Crank Condition

Hello 

I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 Silverado short bed 4WD with a no start condition, 178,000 never had a starting issue and I am the original owner it is totally stock.  

I went to to start the truck and the lights in the dash went out and the chime for the key was sounding strange and no start. 

I jumped started the truck and parked it to work on it. 

I found the battery cables were in poor condition so replaced both the POSITIVE and NEGATIVE battery cables still no start and dash gauges moved with key in on position. 

I then replaced the starter and solenoid, went to start the truck and got clicking so I jumped started the truck with my 50 amp hot start and it would only click.

I then put a jumper cable NEG battery ground to the frame and it started no problem and ran the engine. 

I then checked all the grounds twice, removed them cleaned them and added a new ground to the frame rail still no start just click and no dash lights. 

I had already checked the battery and fuses but I checked them again and found if I use a jumper cable from the neg terminal on the battery to the right frame rail the truck starts and dash light work.

I added a ground cable to the right frame rail but no start and no dash lights but if I use my jumper cable from the battery post to the right frame rail the truck starts and dash lights work. 

I rechecked the grounds and found no problems. 

I do not know where to go next, starter relay or I am thinking I need to replace the ignition switch. 

The battery is not new but turns the motor fast with the negative jumper cable to the right frame rail. 

What do you think, new battery or new ignition switch I am at a total loss on what to do next.  

Thank you for your input 

Bob, 

Warwick NY 

Hi Bob,

I would assume you are using a standard set of jumper cables to make the connection between the battery and the frame rail. My question is where specifically are you connecting the clamps? Also is your battery a standard side post battery or is it a dual terminal battery, top and side posts?

If it is a standard side post battery; you have a poor connection at the battery, the frame rail or the negative cable is faulty.

If you have a dual post battery and have been connecting the jumper cable between the negative top post terminal to the frame rail, then the side post terminal is broken inside the battery.

There is also a very small chance that the act of installing the ground jumper cable is moving something on the positive side of the battery connections.

On that note, are there one or two cables that connect to the battery positive terminal? If you have two check for corrosion between all of the connecting pieces, including the lead spacer.

Sparky

Sparky 

Thank you for your quick response, you called it correct it was a poor connection at the side post connection of the positive side in between the lead spacer. 

I replaced all the cables dual on the positive side and now dual on the negative side I added a additional ground to the other frame rail as my 1996 has a lot of rust. 

I also installed a new battery and everything is working good.

I have to thank you again as it is very kind of you to help with my trouble shooting problem 

Please let me know how I can return the favor to you for your kindness and help  

God Bless you and your family  

All the best 

Bob